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Idyllwild California is one of the reputable places where the sport of rock climbing took its hold. The rocks of Tahquitz and Suicide are not only popular because of the wide variety of climbs, but are also snuggled in the Southern California mountains, which gives climbers excellent weatheri n which to climb! Tahquitz rock is much more identifiable than its counterpart, Suicide Rock. Tahquitz rock can be seen from miles away. It appears from a distance as a little rock stuck in the side of the mountain, but when you are at the base of this rock the term "little" no longer fits its description. The Idyllwild rocks are both multi-pitched crags, and will require rock climbing gear. If you're in the mood to climb, but don't have the experience, gear, or bravery about heights, you'll find that "bouldering" is a nice alternative. The term bouldering refers to climbing boulders to learn the skills that are used in rock climbing. The great thing about bouldering, is that many rocks are only several feet off the ground, and falling is less of a tragedy. Either way you choose to go, be careful, be smart, and be considerate of others (both present and future).
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Rock Climbing Destinations: Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks Written by Rick Booth July, 2001 |
Tahquitz Rock Suicide Rock Boulder Basin lwild County Park Joshua Tree |
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Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are located near the town of Idyllwild, California. Idyllwild is lat about the 5000-foot elevation on Mount San Jacinto on Highway 243. Mount San Jacinto is one of the prominent peaks in the Los Angeles area and dominates the town of Palm Springs, California. For climbers visiting LA for other reasons or for a climbing destination that is worth the effort for its own sake, a visit to Tahquitz and Suicide is highly recommended. To climb at Tahquitz and Suicide is to connect with those who have preceded you. Indeed, the Tahqitz route known as the Mechanics Route, was first put up by Glen Dawson in 1937. Glen Dawson participated in the better-known first ascent of the east face of Mount Whitney, a coveted prize of most Sierra mountaineers. A climb of the the Mechanics Route will impart an incredible appreciation for the boldness of these early climbers. The route is rated modern 5.8. The second pitch is unrelenting: 5.6 pockets without any bolts or other protection. This route has been done using manila ropes and sneakers! A reading of the first "ascencionists" of many of the routes at Tahquitz is a list of the many Southern California participants in the "Golden Era" of Yosemite rock climbing: Robins, Herbert, Chouinard, Dawson, Gallwas, and perhaps the least known of the group, Chuck Wilts, Cal Tech professor and inventor of the knifeblade piton. While Tahquitz was the learning and proving ground for those who went on to put up some of the Yosemite big wall classics, Suicide was the proving ground for the generation to follow, the Stonemasters. Indeed, the entrance exam for membership in the Stonemasters was merely to climb the Suicide classic "Valhalla", 5.11a, which was arguably the first 5.11 in Southern California. This group consisted of John Long, Tobin Sorenson, Eric Accomazzo, and others. These climbers went on to put up some of the hardest routes in the country; indeed, John Long participated in the freeing of "Astroman" on Washington Column in Yosemite Valley. During this period Tony Yaniro put up "The Pirate" on Suicide Rock, which is rated 5.12d. Climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide is about as convenient as it gets. The trail to Tahquitz leaves from the road which ends at a circle at Humber Park, and the trail to Suicide leaves from the road a few hundred yards before the end of the road. Access time to Tahquitz is about 45 minutes or so and the access to Suicide is about half of that. The trail to Tahquitz is steep and sort of loose. Bring a penny to pound into the log across the trail near the top. You will recognize this log immediately. This trail ends at Lunch Rock, where packs may be left. Most people stack their packs in the litter stashed there in a vain attempt to keep their lunch from falling victim to the "Tahquitz attack squirrels". The hike to Suicide leaves the climber near the base of the Weeping Wall, home of many greasy friction fests! The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is granite and is similar to the granite found in the Yosemite Valley. The latest guide book is "Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks" by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines. Earlier guide books have been written by Randy Vogel, and an even earlier version was written by Chuck Wilts. Recommended routes at Tahquitz are "Fingertrip", 5.7, "Traitor Horn", 5.8, "Mechanics Route", 5.8, "Open Book", 5.9, "Super Pooper", 5.10a (supposedly), and "The Vampire", 5.11a. At Suicide the recommended routes are "The Guillotine", 5.8 (run it out and blow it and you will get the "chop"!), "Flower of High Rank", 5.9, "Ten Karat Gold", 5.10a, "Sundance", 5.10b, and "Valhalla", 5.11a. You won't be disappointed. Access to the town of Idyllwild is from either Hemet, via route 74 or from Banning, via route 243. The nearest airports are Palm Springs and Ontario. Camping is available at the state campground, and the county campground. "Mattress people" (boulderers) may prefer the county campground since there is decent bouldering on some rocks in or near the campground. The state park is Mount San Jacinto State Park, located right off highway 243 near downtown Idyllwild. Information may be obtained at 909-659-2607 and reservations may be made at 800-444-7275. The county park is located near the state park but off on a side street. Information for Idyllwild County Park may be obtained at 909-659-2656 and reservations can be made at 800-234-7275. The suggested restaurants for climbers in Idyllwild are as follows: for breakfast try Jan's Red Kettle, a climbers hangout near the center of town; the Idyllwild Café on highway 243 heading out towards Hemet; and the Bread Basket on North Circle Drive heading towards Humber Park. Dinners are available at the Bread Basket, the Gastrognome (good but expensive), Idyllwild Pizza Company near the center of town, and Vercollini's Italian Restaurant (the best), also on Highway 243. |
Suicide rock is another famous rock for rock climbers. The rock received its legendary name from a story of an American Native Princess who threw herself off the rock with her lover rather than being separated as the Tribal Chief had ordered. Suicide rock has a few different ways to approach. The approach has a groomed trail and begins across from Fern Valley Road. Walk down the hillside, you will cross Strawberry Creek then you will turn right on Forest Haven Road (this is a paved road). Follow Forest Haven to the end where it becomes dirt. When it becomes dirt you will see a trail on your left. It is on this trail where it gets a bit steeper. The trail will bring you to the base of Suicide Rock. The trail brings you to the Buttress of Cracks, the Main Sunshine Face and Weeping Wall.
URLs: Here are a few rock-climbing websites you might wish to visit. Much of the information displayed on this page came from these resources: http://www.idyllwild.com/rock_climbing.htm |
Choose your Wall Arpa Carpa Cliff Below Smooth Wall Buttress of Cracks Deception Pillar Eagle Pinnacle Godzilla Face Le Dent Pinnacle Limp Dick Lower East Face My Obsession Boulder North Face North Side Northeast Buttress Piasano Pinnacle Rebolting Face Right of the Escalator Sideshow Slab Smooth Sole Walls South Face South Pinnacle South Side Sunkist Face Sunshine Face Tiny Pillars Upper East Face Weeping Wall Winter Slab  |
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